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DIY Maternity Tank Top (from any tank top pattern)

How to draft a maternity tank top form any tank top pattern

Hey lovelies! Didn’t think you’d see me again so soon, did you? Haha! In all seriousness, though, this is a post I planned on posting in December (!), but alas, here we are, at the end of April, and I’m slowly getting back into the game of posting here.

I made a grand total of 2 maternity sewing projects for myself. I know, it’s shocking even for me. When I once imagined being pregnant, I had these visions of having a handmade pregnancy wardrobe and what not. But, when the time came, I had a hard time investing time and fabric into something I would only get to wear for a couple of months. So, I resorted to mostly clothes I already had, could borrow from friends or thrifted.

diy maternity tank top

Pretty early on in the pregnancy I realised how important it was to have a set of comfy tank tops. They’re perfect for loungewear and layering, so I knew I had to make a couple maternity-friendly tanks.

The process of turning a regular stretchy tank top pattern into a maternity one that I share in this post is something you can replicate with any tank top pattern you might have. And if you don’t have any, here are a few options: Zoe has a free camisole pattern, or you could try this or this pattern. I used one from an old Burda magazine that I’ve used countless times before.

You can also adjust this process to any other knit top pattern whether it’s a snug t-shirt or long-sleeved shirt.

Step 1

maternity tank top step 1

First, lay your front pattern piece on a new sheet of paper. I used this parchment paper that I got from a lovely reader (thank you, Geli!).

Step 2

maternity tank top step 3

Basically, what we’re going to do is add 5cm to the height of the pattern piece.

To do that, make 2 marks on the original pattern piece every 10cm from the armpit down. Then, trace the upper part of the pattern piece onto the parchment paper up to the first 10cm mark.

After that, remove the original pattern piece and measure about 15cm down from the 10cm mark (I measure 18cm down, but that was a bit too much) on the parchment (new) pattern and make a mark there.

Then, place the original pattern piece onto the parchment again, so that the 2nd mark on the original pattern piece aligns with the 15cm mark on the parchment. Makes sense? And trace the lower part of the original pattern piece.

Step 3

maternity tank top step 4

I used my french curve ruler to curve the hem of the new pattern piece slightly more than the original hem. All for better belly coverage.

Step 4

finished maternity tank top pattern

Finally, connect the 2 marks on the new pattern piece. Now you have a new front pattern piece.

All you need to do in the sewing process, is to gather the middle part of the new pattern piece that is now 15cm wide into 10cm (like it was) before you sew together the side seams.

I hope this makes sense to you. I really need to write these tutorials right after making the item, so I can better remember the whole process.

DIY maternity tank top pattern_side view

The one thing I’d do differently would be to go a size up with the pattern. I used a size 34 as my base, but I should have gone with 36. Fortunately, both fabrics I used (I made one in black as well) had a good amount of stretch in it, so they both still fit me now that I’m 36 weeks along.

DIY maternity tank top pattern

This is definitely one of the maternity sewing projects that is worth investing your time in. I’ve worn these almost every day for the past 4 months, and I’ve missed them a lot when they were both in the wash.

What did you sew during pregnancy and do you think it was worth it in hindsight?

xo. Hanna

I’m Sew Crazy DIY Slogan T-shirt

i'm sew crazy t-shirt

I don’t know about you, but this T-shirt was long overdue in my closet. I mean, it says “I’m sew crazy”! Need I go on? I think not. It’s me in a nutshell (with both possible interpretations being true). The project really started with a plain old black T-shirt I had and thought I’d get more wear out of if it wasn’t so boring. Plus, I picked up some silver fabric paint on my last trip to the craft store, and I really wanted to try it out.

Love it, by the way! Fabric paint wins all the craft supply awards in my mind, because it’s so easy to use, and perfect for quick makeover projects.


  • Plain T-shirt
  • Fabric paint (I use Dylon)
  • small paint brush
  • cardboard, or a plastic bag
  • ruler and tailor’s chalk
  • baking paper
  • iron


It’s a very straight forward and easy process. Start with a clean shirt. First, place a layer of cardboard or a plastic bag inside the t-shirt. Then, mark the section you want the text to be in with tailor’s chalk and a ruler.

Before starting to paint the text on the T-shirt, I suggest making a couple of drafts on paper, so you get the feel for the lettering and the size of the text. Once you’re happy with your lettering, start painting it on your T-shirt. It’s daunting at first, but remember, you can still wash off the paint when you haven’t ironed over it.

When you’re done with the text, let it all dry and then iron over it for a few minutes through a sheet of baking paper.

Wear with pride! (I know I am)

I’m loving this new addition to my fall capsule wardrobe, and it’s already in heavy rotation. Sometimes, all an old T-shirt needs is some personality!

For more ideas for using fabric paint in your refashions, check out this crop top project, this paint splatter T-shirt, this tribal-inspired jacket, and this dotty clutch. (This list makes me wonder why no-one at Dylon has contacted me about a collaboration yet. LOL)

Happy crafting!

xo. Hanna

Sewn // Floral Summer Pants (plus an important note)

floral summer pants 3
florl summer pants front

I know it’s practically the end of summer already, but I have one more final summer sewing project to share with you. I made these floral pants at the end of July already, but with my vacation, and catching up with the biz, I just haven’t had time to show it to you.

Truth be told, I had planned to make these in spring. Yep, like about 4 months before I actually made them. But then the Sewing Club came out, and I was so busy with prepping and launching, that all other sewing plans sort of fell to the wayside. I’m so happy I finally got to these plans, though, because I love these pants!

floral summer pants back

I used a Burda pattern again – mod. 4 from Burda Easy Fashion F/S 2008. I know it’s an old issue, but here’s a similar pattern. I’ve had more luck with Burda trouser patterns than I have with top patterns, so I was fairly confident these would turn out ok. As always, no muslin was made (#aintnobodygotimeforthat).

I did however make a few major alterations to the pattern itself. I hate constructing the front zipper, so I decided to move the zipper to the side of the pants. Much easier to sew. So, if you’re a beginner, and you’re dreading those front zippers on pants, this could be your saving grace. I also lengthened the trouser leg a bit, since the original pattern was a cropped trouser.

I cut a size 38, with the intention of taking in quite a bit from the waist, which is my usual alteration with Burda patterns. I doubled the darts and folds and took some in from the sides as well. What I didn’t consider, was the fit of the leg. The pattern called for a stretchy woven, but my fabric had absolutely no ease. This became a big problem once I had sewn the pants together and realised just how tight they were in the thigh and calves area. The only time I’ve ever regretted cutting all the pieces with a seam allowance of 1 cm. I let the seams out as much as I possibly could and then they fit just right, although I can’t afford to gain weight, if I want to wear these again.

Funny #notsofunny story with these pants. So I was almost done with the sewing. I just had to rip out the original leg seams. And on the final seam, I ripped a whole through the fabric. NOOOO! I was so frustrated. I decided to fix it and move on, because honestly, the print is so busy, that no-one was going to notice that little rip, right? I batched it with fusible interfacing from the wrong side, and the repaired the tear. Lesson learned: The seam ripper is evil, and check the fit before you cut.

What I really love about this pattern are the pleats in the front. I also still love this vintage fabric so much. I hope I get to wear these pants (and this top) again next summer. I have a feeling that putting together next year’s summer capsule will be so fun!

What are you sewing at the moment?

xo. Hanna

P.S! I’ll be switching back the blog page as a home page, so if you’re following with Bloglovin’, you probably won’t get the feed. I will get that fixed in the future, but it will take some time. Just try to remember to check back sometimes, or just join the mailing list, to get a weekly reminder 🙂

DIY Simple Jersey Maxi Skirt (Exclusive)

I’ve been enjoying sewing things from scratch lately. It’s a special kind of satisfaction to finish off a fabric that’s been in my stash for a while (read: years). I still had a lot of yardage of this coral jersey tubed fabric that I previously used to make  this DIY maxi dress and this pullover. I had just a big enough piece (and then some) to make a maxi skirt from. And we all know how much I love me a maxi skirt.

diy jersey maxi skirt tutorial

Honestly, I was getting a little bit tired of the colour, so once I was done with the sewing, I just threw it into black dye. Ok, full disclosure, guys… I actually wanted to create an ombre look, and I did, but then it got totally ruined in the wash (wash hand-dyed garments separately – lesson learnt), which meant throwing it back into dye – whole this time.

I didn’t have a big enough basin to dye this maxi in, so I knew the colour would be uneven. To make this effect even more exaggerated, I didn’t stir it much once it was in the dye, and prepared to be surprised. I must say I kind of like this uneven look, and the deep plum colour that came out of the coral+black mix.

This DIY is part of the exclusive DIY series I’m creating just for the Pearls & Scissors’ e-mail list members. Every month, I’ll create at least one exclusive DIY, and as a member, you get access to the whole gallery of past and present DIY tutorials for free. 

Join the mailing list below this post (click through) to get access to the gallery of exclusive DIY tutorials for FREE. I’ll send you an e-mail every time a new DIY gets added.

Thanks so much for following along!

xo. Hanna

DIY Easy Kimono (tutorial)

Today I’m happy to welcome Nina from Lemon Pie and Tie & Dye to the blog. Nina’s here to share a simple DIY kimono tutorial with you. I love the end results, so I’m looking forward to making one for myself as well once I get back from my vacation. 

Kimonos are one of my summer staples. I love the boho vibe they add to a look, and they are light enough for layering even in the hottest months. They can also be worn at the beach on top of your swimwear to shade from the sun while you play beach volley (or read gossip magazines. Don’t worry, I won’t tell ;)) And you know what’s the best thing about kimonos? You can make one easily ! Let me show you how.


To make your own kimono, you’ll need :

  • fabric : choose a lightweight, flowy fabric, like tana lawn cotton, viscose, or something sheer like crepe, or even sateen or silk if you want to be very fancy ! Be aware that viscose or sateen can de very slippery so if you’re a beginner, you might want to choose something easier to sew like cotton. You can also find a bunch of useful tips here to sew with slippery fabrics.
  • matching thread
  • a 30x8 cm piece of interfacing and a piece of extra fabric of the same size
  • pins, scissors, tailor’s chalk
  • sewing machine and iron
  • templates for the neckline and the reinforcement piece (click to download)


1. First, measure the desired lenght L and desired width l of your kimono. For the lenght, measure from the top of your shoulder to where you want your kimono to stop. For the width, spread your arm and measure from the middle of your neck to where you want your kimono to stop on your arm. Cut a rectangle of fabric of the following dimensions : lenght 2 x L + 6 cm, width 2 x l + 2 cm. Four your information, the dimensions of mine are : L = 128cm and l = 63 cm.

2. Mark the middle line of the rectangle with pins of tailor’s chalk. Measure 30 cm on each side of the middle line and mark with pins of tailor’s chalk. These will be our armholes marks. Measure and mark the middle point of your fabric.

3. Print and place the template on the fabric, centering it and alining the dotted line with the middle line of your fabric. With a ruler, trace the vertical lines on the template down to the bottom of your fabric.

4. Cut along the lines.

5. From the fabric you just cut, remove the rounded top and cut into two long strips of fabric. Print the reinforcement piece template and cut twice, once in extra fabric, once in interfacing. Fuse the two pieces together with an iron.

6. Pin the two stips of fabric on the straight edges of the lined piece, right sides facing each other. Sew with 1 cm sewing allowance, then press the seams. Zig-zag stitch along the external edge.

7. Place the U-shaped piece on the rectangle, right side facing each other, and pin in place. Sew with 1 cm seam allowance. Cut darts on the rounded edges, then open the seam.

8. Flip the U-shaped piece inside the kimono (now the wrong sides are facing each other). Pin and sew at 0,5 cm from the fold.

9. Zig-zag stitch the edges between the armholes marks. On the wrong side of you fabric, fold a 1 cm hem on each long side of the rectangle and stitch between the two armholes marks.

10. Fold your fabric in two along the middle line. Sew from the armholes marks to the bottom. Make a double-fold hem all along the bottom of your kimono (fole on 1 cm, press with the iron, then fold on 2 cm, press and sew at 0,5 cm of the first fold), and you’re done! All that’s left is to wear flower in your hair, dance in the wild and enjoy the beautiful nights of August!

Note: if you want to add fringe to your kimono, it’s easy! To add bottom frigne, measure and cut a fringed ribbon of length 2 x l. Sew onto the bottom of your kimono after hemming. To add fringe on the sleeves, cut two pieces of 60 cm in fringed ribbon. Sew between the armohole marks when or after hemming. When sewing the two sides of the kimono together, you can overlap the armholes marks a little bit (about 1 cm overlap) to sandwich the fringes between the side seams.


Sewn // Pleated Blouse (Version 2)

sewing club blouse vol 2

This is my second iteration of the pleated blouse we’re sewing up in the Start Sewing Club right now. For the second version (here’s the first), I chose a viscose fabric, which I love both for the pattern and for the lovely softness it has to it. Fits in perfectly with the rest of my summer wardrobe.

It’s funny that despite doing a lot of sewing projects each week, I still feel that I haven’t been sewing a lot lately. I guess those refashion projects often don’t feel like real sewing project, because they’re usually so quick and easy, and don’t require cutting out pattern pieces. I’d love to sew more from scratch in the future, but since I’ve said that a lot, I’m not going to make any promises.

I do love how this blouse turned out, though. It’s light and easy to wear and just about the most comfortable thing to throw on (but still look like you made an effort). Hubby doesn’t like me making and wearing a lot of loose-fitting tops, but that’s what I’m gravitating towards lately. I guess I love that I don’t need to worry about whether I’ve eaten too much that morning, or any bumps on the road showing through. In fact, I have another loose-fitting top in my sewing queue (shhh…don’t tell hubby).

What have you been making lately?

xo. Hanna

P.S! The Start Sewing Club projects will soon be available as self-paced courses. If you want to know more and be the first to get dibs on new sewing courses, hop on the list below. Plus, you’ll get a free Start Sewing Guide to get you started.

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